Wild flowers on Tortoise Mountain
2008-04-30
Sonja Burger
I DISCOVERED the Paarl Wildflower Garden - a secluded wildflower paradise that nestles amongst 530 million-year-old granite rocks against the eastern slope of Paarl Mountain - nine years ago when we moved to Paarl. Situated between two massive granite rocks with Paarl Rock in the foreground, the garden provides a magnificent view across the Berg River Valley. The distinctive granite domes on the mountain were formed 530 million years ago when hot, viscose granite magma started pushing upwards into the rock formations above. For fifty million years waves and rivers carved away at the sandstone and shale of the Cape Super Group to reveal the more resilient granite - the mounds of the ‘Tortoise Mountain’ that served as a landmark for nomadic Hottentots centuries ago. Tortoise Mountain became “Diamond and Pearl” Mountain when the Dutch colonists arrived. Van Riebeeck sent his fiscal, Abraham Gabbema, to trade with the Hottentots and upon seeing the wet surface of the rocks gleaming in the sun, Gabbema named them for the gemstones in the crowns of a faraway Europe. The Paarl Mountain Reserve is home to more than 1 100 different plants. The flora of the mountain is remarkable in that it includes many plants that are not found on the Cape Peninsula. Some scientists ascribe the rich biodiversity to the isolation of the mountain, which became an island at times when the sea level rose. In the garden are 18 Erica and 22 Protea species, as well as numerous other shrubs, ferns and mosses. The red data-listed Silver Leaf Tree grows here, as do many wild olives, rock candlewoods and wagon trees. The garden also boasts thousands of bulbs collected by the ladies of the Town Beautifying Society during the 1930’s. In fact, the garden owes its existence to these ladies. In 1931 an enthusiastic group, who wanted to beautify Paarl and conserve the natural heritage, established the Town Beautifying Society. In 1932, 4,86 hectares were demarcated as a Wild Flower Garden, and with a handsome bequest from Miss Mattie Joubert, a local nature lover, this group started developing the garden. They were ably assisted by a number of Italian prisoners-of-war who helped to build the footpaths and who channeled the waters of the Mill Stream (which powered the local mill downstream in earlier times) into a series of rock pools and streams. Later, three thatched summer houses and a replica of the ancient Keswick stone bridge at Derwent Water, Scotland, were added. From September to October the garden is a riot of colour - mauve and peach Watsonias, yellow Wachendorfias, orange Leucospermums and regally pink Protea cynaroides display the abundance of nature. The sugarbushes seem aflame with brilliant red flowers. The Ericas amaze with their flowers that vary from cerise to delicate pink to Van Gogh yellow striped with bright orange. From July to December blue Felicias create cheerful patches So do the “agdaegeneesbossie”, which the KhoiKhoi believed could heal a wound in eight days. Birds thrive on the mountain. Cape Sugarbirds and Orange-breasted Sunbirds are endemic. Raptors include Black Eagles, Booted Eagles, Jackal Buzzards and Peregrine Falcons. In summer one sees Steppe Buzzards gliding effortlessly overhead. In spring the Mouse Birds dart among pincushions and proteas. In the Paarl Wildflower Garden the evidence of human intervention is almost hidden although considerable effort goes into managing the garden. When Paarl Mountain was declared a “commonage for the use and the benefits of the inhabitants” of Paarl by Crownland deed on 2 December 1838, the lawmakers probably did not realise that 11 000 horseless carriages would one day trek up the mountain every year to share in the pleasure of this commonage.
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