Buffaloes wade in
2009-02-26
Lise Beyers
IF it depends on Wayne Rademeyer, the town of Wellington will soon be known for its authentic buffalo mozzarella cheese. Rademeyer previously practised as an advocate in Johannesburg, but his outlook on things changed when he became disillusion- ed by the poor quality of mozzarella cheese which is generally used for one of his favourite dishes, Salad Caprese. He started to investigate the possibilities of producing the real deal, which is made from the milk of the water buffalo. This milk is much richer, with a higher fat and protein content, than cow’s milk, but yet it is safe for those intolerant of lactose. And for the health conscious, it is also lower in cholesterol. Mozzarella di bufala has been produced in southern Italy for many centuries, but the rest of the world has been slow to follow, producing the tasteless, rubbery variation from cow’s milk. Rademeyer’s dream has now become a thriving business, also making him the first producer of authentic mozzarella di bufala balls in South Africa. But it has not been an easy road. Many cheese producers have had the same dream of creating real mozzarella, but have been scared off by the huge task of locating and importing a herd of Indian buffaloes. However, Rademeyer and his family persevered and spent more than 6 years sourcing their buffalo. Eventually a herd of 24 animals were found in Australia. This was easier said than done, because more months followed of sorting out red-tape, as well as a seven month quarantine period in Australia and a further 35 days in South Africa, before the beasts were eventually flown in style on Quantas Airlines. By this time Rademeyer had decided to acquire a small vine farm 10 kilometres outside Wellington, where the circumstances are ideal for the buffalo. The area has adequate water, a good climate and is easily accessible from an infrastructure such as Cape Town. Yet it is quite secluded from the prying eye of the public. Rademeyer upped and left his job as advocate and relocated his family to Hout Bay. And much time has been spent in Italy by Wayne and his wife Michelle, learning the fine art of making mozzarella di bufala. The Rademeyers now produce the cheese, package it and do their own marketing. Already the small herd has grown to 50 fine beasts which can be seen contentedly grazing among the vineyards and cavorting in water ponds. Rademeyer only milks his buffalo cows once a day and they produce about 10 litres of white gold daily. The cows can produce milk for up to 20 years, which make them a viable product, and the herd is free range and are fed no artificial hormone enriched feeds. Although these buffalo are much more passive than their African ancestors, the fields are surrounded by electrical fencing. Due to their huge mass (they can weigh up to a ton) they can easily break through fences and hit the road. In truth they are treated more like pets, as Rademeyer believes that a happy animal produces a better product. Currently Rademeyer cannot keep up with the demand for his cheese, Buffalo Ridge, which has become a sought-after product countrywide. But at the end of the day the proof is in the pudding. Is all the fuss worth his while when it comes to the final product? Indeed. The cheese is like no other tasted. It is full in flavour and has a delicate spongy texture, which one can just tear apart. The downside is that it spoils one’s appetite for any other mozzarella which is locally produced. In short, Rademeyer has given Wellington balls.
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